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indonesia part 2: togean islands, sulawesi
[related blog post]
[posted: 2011-09-08]
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going south - our backpacks went on the top
we departed from manado at 06:50 a.m. busses just leave when they're full.
on the bus to gorontalo, 13:15
on the bus to gorontalo, just before arrival, 17:00. we did roughly 400 km in 10+ hours.
like pretty much everybody else, they were happy to practice what little english they spoke.
the night ferry from gorontalo to wakai (
togean islands
). another 14 hours of travel including quite a thunderstorm.
business class on the night ferry
arrival in wakai
math and uni's dad at a kind-of wavy boardwalk. mrs. uni offered for us to stay at her house while we waited for our next boat.
math, on the public boat to malenge island.
stopover along the route. the arrival of the boat was a bit of a highlight.
stopover: loading and unloading of virtually anything you could think of - such as...
...mosque tops, garden furniture, also fridges, washing machines and several motorbikes/scooters.
...and of course: live chickens.
arrival of the public boat at pulau malenge, togean islands.
yet another boat, after 35 hours of travel. the woman took us to the remote malenge indah cottages, on the far side of the island.
the first impression right from the bed.
panorama: this was the view from our cottage
panorama: a picture from paradise.
one of five cottages at malenge indah cottages
the bathroom slash restroom.
panorama: the inside of the bathroom - complete with toilet, flush water basin (small), shower water basin (big) and multifunction scoop.
absolute bliss
on our way back to malenge village, with brigitte.
malenge village. the rising smoke hints at food preparations for the end of ramadan, id-ul-fitr
malenge village. the rising smoke hints at food preparations for the end of ramadan, id-ul-fitr
mosque, banner and sheep.
walking through malenge village
brigitte + camera = ultimate kid magnet
festive lanterns. we were invited to taste nasi bulum (
bamboo rice
) by the owner of the house.
special togean id-ul fitr tradition: kids firing bamboo cannons
math and brigitte - dinner at malenge indah (
malenge village
)
special togean id-ul fitr tradition: kids firing bamboo cannons
id-ul fitr in malenge village: lanterns, torches, and good spirit after a month of fasting
special togean id-ul fitr tradition: kids firing bamboo cannons
special togean id-ul fitr tradition: kids firing bamboo cannons
this kid was the cannon specialist. special togean id-ul fitr tradition: kids firing bamboo cannons
at one point, he emptied the whole oil bottle into the bamboo tube.
id-ul fitr lanterns
math in jeopardy: tiny hermit crab
hermit crabs are cool!
fight arena!
hammock in the sunset
joao, brigitte, miguel and math at dinner.
two species of clownfish (
amphiprion spp.
) are sharing one anemone.
wonderful reefscape at "number 5" snorkelling spot, malenge
wonderful reefscape at "number 5" snorkelling spot, malenge
checkerboard wrasse (
halichoeres hortulanus
)
blue-spotted grouper (
cephalopholis argus
)
a basslet? (
pseudoanthias sp.?
)
coral closeup, showing the tiny polyps that form entire reefs.
our host went to catch some fish, and returned 30 minutes later with a blue-spotted ribbontail ray (
taeniura lymma
).
dinner: blue-spotted ribbontail ray (
taeniura lymma
)
departure from paradise
sunset near malenge island
typical indonesian breakfast, at uni's place: mie noodles, fried eggs and teh manis (
sweet tea
)
uni's fridge
off we go. next stop: uni's sunset cottages
sunset cottages, near wakai. this is the newly built restaurant.
stairs to the restaurant.
panorama: amazing view from the restaurant
panorama: sunset cottages
simple but comfortable
quite luxurious: shower and western toilet in a private bathroom
the indonesian way of wiring
sunset cottages, near wakai
the fireplace, sunset cottage restaurant. it's unbelievable how fast and good one can cook with a wood stove!
the fireplace, sunset cottage restaurant. it's unbelievable how fast and good one can cook with a wood stove!
30 minutes later: dinner with pasta, fish, eggplant and the very common indonesian potato-fusilli-combination.
uni and her son, sam. he loved math's backpack.
another boatride in the togian islands
the village's pharmacy, at sunday market. wakai is about the biggest settlement in the togean islands.
panorama: typical indonesian boat
agnes, papa uni and math, on our way to bomba
a two-hour boatride through a cluster of little islands
poya lisa cottages - this is almost the entire island!
poya lisa cottages, near bomba
panorama: poya lisa cottages
snorkelling at "susan", near bomba. big swarms of little fish!
snorkelling at "susan", near bomba. big swarms of little fish!
red bali star (
fromia milleporella
), a small red starfish with small black spikes. snorkelling at "susan", near bomba.
orange skunk clownfish (
amphiprion sandaracinos
), trying to hide in their anemone in the midst of a beautiful, colourful reefscape.
orange skunk clownfish (
amphiprion sandaracinos
), trying to hide in their anemone in the midst of a beautiful, colourful reefscape.
another vertical reef drop-off.
poya lisa's snorkelling boat offered daily free snorkel trips.
panorama: bat cave near bomba
bat cave group photo: our guide jemmy, annabelle, william, math, agnes and me.
different concept for a cow bell.
the little shop in bomba. whatever you desire... :)
sunset in bomba
coconut crabs or palm thiefs (
birgus latro
), this one's a small exemplar) are the largest living species of land arthropod in the world.
marine hermit crab
hairy red hermit crab (
dardanus lagopodes
)
scribbled pipefish (
corythoichthys intestinalis
), right off the boardwalk of poya lisa
scribbled pipefish (
corythoichthys intestinalis
), closeup
scribbled pipefish (
corythoichthys intestinalis
)
scribbled pipefish (
corythoichthys intestinalis
), closeup
black mantle snail (
coriocella nigra, fam. velutinidae
), a prosobranch sea snail which is blue with black spots. its shell is internal, the appendages make it look like a sponge.
panorama: poya lisa island and cottages
panorama: the restaurant at poya lisa. at high tide, there's only a strip of sand leading to the stairs.
on the public boat from bomba to ampana.
one last challenge before we were back on the mainland. ;)
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